Do/Don't? Soldering Wire Tips Before Sticking into Terminal Block
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D from BC - 08 Mar 2010 03:08 GMT Is it ok to solder the tips of stranded wire before inserting into a terminal block? I like soldering the tips so that there's no wire fraying or free strands. But...Does the solder slowly compress after awhile and the wire gets loose? Sure I could perhaps a crimp on pin terminals to stick in the terminal block. Ex: http://www.molex.com/pdm_docs/sd/192110001_sd.pdf I'm afraid I'll have to buy a ridiculously priced crimping tool that'll get used a few times and then be forgotten. :(
 Signature D from BC British Columbia
Martin Riddle - 08 Mar 2010 03:40 GMT > Is it ok to solder the tips of stranded wire before inserting into a > terminal block? [quoted text clipped - 9 lines] > that'll > get used a few times and then be forgotten. :( Yes the solder will cold flow.
There are other crimp terminals such as Panduit <http://www.alliedelec.com/search/productdetail.aspx?SKU=3810879> These can use standard lug crimpers.
Cheers
D from BC - 08 Mar 2010 03:58 GMT > > Is it ok to solder the tips of stranded wire before inserting into a > > terminal block? [quoted text clipped - 18 lines] > Cheers > Does that apply to all solders? Is there a type of solder that takes a longer time to cold flow? Silver solder?
Martin Riddle - 08 Mar 2010 04:16 GMT >> > Is it ok to solder the tips of stranded wire before inserting into >> > a [quoted text clipped - 24 lines] > Is there a type of solder that takes a longer time to cold flow? > Silver solder? Not sure, but I have come across this failure before.
Cheers
Tim Williams - 08 Mar 2010 08:38 GMT > Does that apply to all solders? > Is there a type of solder that takes a longer time to cold flow? > Silver solder? Silver solder is actually a braze, and as such you will have no insulation left on the wire after brazing it. It's made of similar metals as the wire, so it won't cold flow, not at this temperature anyway.
Tim
 Signature Deep Friar: a very philosophical monk. Website: http://webpages.charter.net/dawill/tmoranwms
JosephKK - 10 Mar 2010 13:01 GMT >> Does that apply to all solders? >> Is there a type of solder that takes a longer time to cold flow? [quoted text clipped - 5 lines] > >Tim Many people here would more likely be talking pb63, sn35, ag2 rather than braze material.
Tim Williams - 10 Mar 2010 13:18 GMT >>> Silver solder? >> >> Silver solder is actually a braze .. > > Many people here would more likely be talking pb63, sn35, ag2 rather than > braze material. Unfortuantely. That stuff is properly called silver-*bearing* solder, and is a regular soft solder.
Tim
 Signature Deep Friar: a very philosophical monk. Website: http://webpages.charter.net/dawill/tmoranwms
GoldIntermetallicEmbrittlement - 10 Mar 2010 13:20 GMT >>> Does that apply to all solders? >>> Is there a type of solder that takes a longer time to cold flow? [quoted text clipped - 8 lines] >Many people here would more likely be talking pb63, sn35, ag2 rather than braze >material. No one in the electronics industry tins wires with silver solder (or braze for that matter)
In other words, yet more utter stupidity.
Fred Abse - 08 Mar 2010 09:44 GMT > Does that apply to all solders? > Is there a type of solder that takes a longer time to cold flow? Silver > solder? If you mean tin/lead/silver solder, the sort that you can use an iron with, that's as bad as ordinary tin/lead.
"Proper" silver solder, AKA hard solder, doesn't creep as much, but needs a brazing torch.
 Signature "Electricity is of two kinds, positive and negative. The difference is, I presume, that one comes a little more expensive, but is more durable; the other is a cheaper thing, but the moths get into it." (Stephen Leacock)
osr@uakron.edu - 08 Mar 2010 12:17 GMT The Europeans solder or crimp soft brass tubing onto the wire. Wire goes half in, screw clamps on the half without wire. I put brass tubing on large wire all the time. It really helps on the large wires, on "blind" terminal blocks that only grip about 1/4" of the wire. It will cold flow in about 10-15 years. The units I serviced had the mains wires (30 amp, 220, 3P) loosening up in 2005, they were made in 1985.
Steve
D Yuniskis - 08 Mar 2010 04:00 GMT > Is it ok to solder the tips of stranded wire before inserting into a > terminal block? > I like soldering the tips so that there's no wire fraying or free > strands. > But...Does the solder slowly compress after awhile and the wire gets > loose? If you are going to put a (bare) wire under a screw, put that *bare* wire under the screw. Don't "tin" it.
I think there are even some safety regulations that directly address this issue (?)
> Sure I could perhaps a crimp on pin terminals to stick in the terminal > block. > Ex: > http://www.molex.com/pdm_docs/sd/192110001_sd.pdf > I'm afraid I'll have to buy a ridiculously priced crimping tool that'll > get used a few times and then be forgotten. :( JosephKK - 10 Mar 2010 13:06 GMT >> Is it ok to solder the tips of stranded wire before inserting into a >> terminal block? [quoted text clipped - 8 lines] >I think there are even some safety regulations that directly >address this issue (?) Not that i have heard of. What i am seeing is terminal blocks, switches, and other wiring devices that are rated for use with stranded wire.
>> Sure I could perhaps a crimp on pin terminals to stick in the terminal >> block. >> Ex: >> http://www.molex.com/pdm_docs/sd/192110001_sd.pdf >> I'm afraid I'll have to buy a ridiculously priced crimping tool that'll >> get used a few times and then be forgotten. :( Archimedes' Lever - 10 Mar 2010 13:21 GMT >Not that i have heard of. What i am seeing is terminal blocks, switches, >and other wiring devices that are rated for use with stranded wire. Not that your petty experiences would have you ever experiencing the industry correctly.
D Yuniskis - 10 Mar 2010 16:56 GMT >>> Is it ok to solder the tips of stranded wire before inserting into a >>> terminal block? [quoted text clipped - 10 lines] > Not that i have heard of. What i am seeing is terminal blocks, switches, > and other wiring devices that are rated for use with stranded wire. I know that IBM didn't let us do it when we were sub'ing work from them. IME, that usually meant there was wither some written standard (that they were complying with) *or* they had determined (not just opined) that it was A Bad Thing.
John Larkin - 08 Mar 2010 04:41 GMT >Is it ok to solder the tips of stranded wire before inserting into a >terminal block? [quoted text clipped - 8 lines] >I'm afraid I'll have to buy a ridiculously priced crimping tool that'll >get used a few times and then be forgotten. :( There's a chance that, if there's any motion or vibration, the wire will break at the transition between the wicked solder and the unsoldered bit. It's illegal per NASA and some MIL soldering standards.
These weird tools are used to control wicking
http://www.amazon.com/Ripley-Miller-Anti-Wicking-Tweezer-Bullet/dp/B001KAHKPM
in some situations.
John
Ban - 08 Mar 2010 04:43 GMT > Is it ok to solder the tips of stranded wire before inserting into a > terminal block? [quoted text clipped - 8 lines] > I'm afraid I'll have to buy a ridiculously priced crimping tool > that'll get used a few times and then be forgotten. :( ferrules an a hand crimping tool can be found for a few bucks at Walmart. The solder makes the strands brittle and if there is some vibration the cable will break off. solder migration is not an issue here.
Ban
Fred Abse - 08 Mar 2010 09:44 GMT > solder migration is not an issue here. No, but "creep", in the metallurgical sense (slow deformation under stress), is. The solder filling the interstices between individual wires moves, allowing the connection to go slack.
 Signature "Electricity is of two kinds, positive and negative. The difference is, I presume, that one comes a little more expensive, but is more durable; the other is a cheaper thing, but the moths get into it." (Stephen Leacock)
TTman - 08 Mar 2010 07:25 GMT > Is it ok to solder the tips of stranded wire before inserting into a > terminal block? [quoted text clipped - 8 lines] > I'm afraid I'll have to buy a ridiculously priced crimping tool that'll > get used a few times and then be forgotten. :( Just twist the wire first......strip bach 1/2" of insulation and leave it on the wire. Makes it easier to twist. Soldering will induce fractures with vibration.
amark - 08 Mar 2010 07:38 GMT > Is it ok to solder the tips of stranded wire before inserting into a > terminal block? [quoted text clipped - 11 lines] > D from BC > British Columbia Hi D! I think that if you're going to do the job, you are better off to do it right. That means follow the manufacturer's recommendations, when it comes to connectors of any kind.
BTW I think that many failures in electronic equipment are at the connection between one thing and another, whether it be solder connections, plugs that need reseating or other arrangement coming adrift through heat cycling, corrosion, electrolytic action, blah blah... always try to minimise such failures by making the best possible job of all electrical connections.
amark
Archimedes' Lever - 10 Mar 2010 04:50 GMT >> Is it ok to solder the tips of stranded wire before inserting into a >> terminal block? [quoted text clipped - 25 lines] > >amark Not one reference to creep.
Amateur response.
Tim Watts - 08 Mar 2010 08:04 GMT D from BC <myrealaddress@comic.com> wibbled on Monday 08 March 2010 03:08
> Is it ok to solder the tips of stranded wire before inserting into a > terminal block? [quoted text clipped - 8 lines] > I'm afraid I'll have to buy a ridiculously priced crimping tool that'll > get used a few times and then be forgotten. :( 2 problems:
1) Solder "creeps" over time, so the screw that was tightened today may not remain tight.
2) IME, I have also observed, with finer wires, that the wire can break at the point between tinned and non tinned wire due to concentration of stresses.
The right way is to crimp some "bootlace" uninsulated ferrules on the end, which is what I do with house wiring, if I'm terminating flex from say 12V downlighters (I use silicone HT flex for the last leg to these) into regular terminal blocks. Works very nicely. Don't buy the crimp tool from RS unless you like throwing money away - a little research on google and you can get decent ratchet tools for 20-30 quid. The ferrules are dirt cheap.
 Signature Tim Watts
Managers, politicians and environmentalists: Nature's carbon buffer.
Jan Panteltje - 08 Mar 2010 12:28 GMT >Is it ok to solder the tips of stranded wire before inserting into a >terminal block? Better not. It will get lose over time, and if there is a lot of current melt the terminal block. You need to uses these tubes (dunno the English worrd), and put those around the cable end.
----------- ----- metal tube |======= ----------- -----
Sometimes it is better to solder the cables in case of high currents,.
>I like soldering the tips so that there's no wire fraying or free >strands. [quoted text clipped - 6 lines] >I'm afraid I'll have to buy a ridiculously priced crimping tool that'll >get used a few times and then be forgotten. :( UpYerNose - 10 Mar 2010 05:08 GMT >>Is it ok to solder the tips of stranded wire before inserting into a >>terminal block? > >Better not. >It will get lose over time, and if there is a lot of current melt the terminal block. The current doesn't do it, idiot. Solder creeps under PHYSICAL stress. PERIOD.
Rich Webb - 08 Mar 2010 13:20 GMT >Is it ok to solder the tips of stranded wire before inserting into a >terminal block? [quoted text clipped - 8 lines] >I'm afraid I'll have to buy a ridiculously priced crimping tool that'll >get used a few times and then be forgotten. :( As others have mentioned, solder-tinning the ends is contra-indicated; the solder will cold flow or crumble and the connection loosen.
Either just use the bare (twisted) wire ends or (preferred) crimp a ferrule over the bundle. I use the ones from http://www.americanelectrical.com/wireferrules.htm. Not too expensive and Digikey (and others) carry several of their kits/assortments.
For the crimper, if you have a compatible frame then you can get a set of dies pretty cheaply. If you need the whole setup, try a Lunar frame + die set p/n 300-001 at http://www.starkelectronic.com/eclp8.htm among others.
 Signature Rich Webb Norfolk, VA
UpYerNose - 10 Mar 2010 05:10 GMT >As others have mentioned, solder-tinning the ends is contra-indicated; >the solder will cold flow or crumble and the connection loosen. NO. It does NOT "cold flow" Stop mixing terms used for effects of other realms. NO, it does NOT crumble. Solder NEVER "crumbles", idiot.
It CREEPS period. Look it up, dipshit!
nospam - 08 Mar 2010 17:42 GMT >Is it ok to solder the tips of stranded wire before inserting into a >terminal block? No.
The 'spring' in what you screw down on is what maintains pressure on the screw threads and so maintains friction to prevent the screw turning.
Compare the 'springiness' of a bit of solder with a similar bit of copper wire and why it is a bad idea is obvious (and the copper will work harden and become even more 'springy').
If you really don't want to use ferrules a dab of solder right on the end will hold the strands together while keeping just copper under the screw but it is hard to achieve consistently.
D Yuniskis - 08 Mar 2010 18:03 GMT > If you really don't want to use ferrules a dab of solder right on the end > will hold the strands together while keeping just copper under the screw > but it is hard to achieve consistently. A friend used to (haven't seen him in decades so no idea if he ever "learned better" :>) part the strands into two groups. Then, slip the screw between the groups. Finally, twist the groups together on the "far side" of the screw. I.e., the screw is now captive to the wire.
This made it easy to attach wires in often hard to reach places -- but it was just *so* wrong in so many ways! :< (copper on the "right" side of the screw ends up being pushed out of the way as the screw is tightened)
[hmmm... that begs the question: what term to use to refer to describe the "side" (direction) that you turn *into*? E.g., what I have called "right" in this example]
keithw86@gmail.com - 08 Mar 2010 19:06 GMT > [hmmm... that begs the question: what term to use > to refer to describe the "side" (direction) that you > turn *into*? E.g., what I have called "right" in > this example] The side into the wind would be "windward" side, so the other side would be "leeward". ;-)
D Yuniskis - 08 Mar 2010 19:26 GMT >> [hmmm... that begs the question: what term to use >> to refer to describe the "side" (direction) that you [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] > The side into the wind would be "windward" side, so the other side > would be "leeward". ;-) wise *ss! :>
My question is serious: how do you refer to the "clockwise side" of something? etc.
J.A. Legris - 08 Mar 2010 19:36 GMT > keith...@gmail.com wrote: > [quoted text clipped - 10 lines] > My question is serious: how do you refer to the "clockwise > side" of something? etc. CW to the right, CCW to the left. In 2-D algebraic geometry CW is negative angular displacement and CCW is positive.
-- Joe
D Yuniskis - 08 Mar 2010 19:55 GMT Hi Joe,
>> keith...@gmail.com wrote: >>>> [hmmm... that begs the question: what term to use [quoted text clipped - 10 lines] > CW to the right, CCW to the left. In 2-D algebraic geometry CW is > negative angular displacement and CCW is positive. Yes, I know CW from CCW. :>
What I was getting at is how do you concisely (ha! me and concise, what an idea! :> ) refer to the situation I was describing above.
I.e., you wrap a wire around a screw/post clockwise so that tightening the screw draws the wire around the screw *with* the screw's motion. How do you describe the "initial placement" of said wire? I.e., it wants to be "to the left" <frown> of the post (but left and right have no meaning in this context; and clockwise/counterclockwise only refer to the direction in which you *wrap* the wire -- not *place* it!)
For example, placing the wire such that tightening the screw *frays* the individual strands is A Bad Thing. How do you refer to the "side" of the screw that causes this result? (without saying "wrap the wire around the post in a clockwise manner" -- since some wires are NOT wrapped around a post ... e.g. solid wire that under some sorts of connectors)
As an aside, I recently noticed a Hubbel (?) power plug had a guide for *insulation* length as well as "stripping length" molded into the plastic. I'd seen the latter in many places before. But, this was a first for the former! (turned out to be "spot on", too!)
John Fields - 08 Mar 2010 21:06 GMT >Hi Joe, > [quoted text clipped - 33 lines] >wrapped around a post ... e.g. solid wire that under some >sorts of connectors) --- Since a normally-threaded screw is turned clockwise to tighten it, the correct wire placement would always be on the left hand (port) side of the screw when viewing it from the headed side of the screw.
JF
D Yuniskis - 09 Mar 2010 16:59 GMT Hi John,
>> Hi Joe, >> [quoted text clipped - 36 lines] > correct wire placement would always be on the left hand (port) side of > the screw when viewing it from the headed side of the screw. No, you're still missing the distinction! The direction the wire *approaches* the screw from plays a role. E.g., Red Right Return is different from Red Right Depart! :>
So, you have to think in terms of the tip of the wire in relationship to the balance of the wire. I.e., if you are standing at the tip WITH THE REST OF THE WIRE BEHIND YOU, then your approach to the screw would keep *it* on your right. If, OTOH, you were standing at the tip with the balance of the wire IN FRONT of you, then you would keep the screw on your left.
Or, from your analogy, whether the wire approaches you (standing on the head of the screw) "head on" or creeps up on you from behind.
There are two references here -- how you refer to the wire and how you refer to the screw (post).
Think of how you would explain this to "a guy off the street" (not someone in s.e.d)
UpYerNose - 10 Mar 2010 05:19 GMT >No, you're still missing the distinction! The direction the wire >*approaches* the screw from plays a role. E.g., Red Right Return >is different from Red Right Depart! :> Idiot. His response was EXACTLY what you asked for.
JosephKK - 10 Mar 2010 13:19 GMT >Hi John, > [quoted text clipped - 58 lines] >Think of how you would explain this to "a guy off the street" >(not someone in s.e.d) Since you do not like JL's description how about threadwards? It goes around the screw the same direction the screw goes into the terminal.
D Yuniskis - 10 Mar 2010 15:09 GMT Hi Joseph,
>> Hi John, >> [quoted text clipped - 60 lines] > goes around the screw the same direction the screw goes into the > terminal. Ah, that's good. Still has ties to CW but it's different enough to force people to think about it -- instead of blindly assuming they know what it means. I am always amazed at how often I see people doing this "the wrong way" -- even folks who *should* know better (EE's, electricians, etc.)
JosephKK - 10 Mar 2010 21:28 GMT >Hi Joseph, > [quoted text clipped - 68 lines] >people doing this "the wrong way" -- even folks who *should* know >better (EE's, electricians, etc.) It was selected to help support cases of (uncommon) LH threaded screws.
D from BC - 08 Mar 2010 20:02 GMT > >> [hmmm... that begs the question: what term to use > >> to refer to describe the "side" (direction) that you [quoted text clipped - 8 lines] > My question is serious: how do you refer to the "clockwise > side" of something? etc. My GPS says 'Keep right' or 'Keep left'. Maybe that can apply here.
D Yuniskis - 09 Mar 2010 16:59 GMT >>>> [hmmm... that begs the question: what term to use >>>> to refer to describe the "side" (direction) that you [quoted text clipped - 11 lines] > 'Keep left'. > Maybe that can apply here. No. Think about it. There "reference" needs to be the body (or the tip?) of the wire.
E.g.,
=======---- O
and
----========== O
are both on the same "side" of the post (O). But, will yield different results when the screw is tightened.
UpYerNose - 10 Mar 2010 05:21 GMT >>>>> [hmmm... that begs the question: what term to use >>>>> to refer to describe the "side" (direction) that you [quoted text clipped - 28 lines] >But, will yield different results when the screw is >tightened. Stranded wires under screw type terminations are not EVER recommended.
That is what ring lugs are for.
Richard Henry - 08 Mar 2010 20:16 GMT On Mar 8, 11:06 am, "keith...@gmail.com" <keith...@gmail.com> wrote:
> > [hmmm... that begs the question: what term to use > > to refer to describe the "side" (direction) that you [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] > The side into the wind would be "windward" side, so the other side > would be "leeward". ;-) Which leads to a common sailor's problem: it is preferred that the movable ballast (passengers) sit on the windward side, but piss off the leeward.
D Yuniskis - 08 Mar 2010 20:49 GMT > On Mar 8, 11:06 am, "keith...@gmail.com" <keith...@gmail.com> wrote: >> [quoted text clipped - 8 lines] > movable ballast (passengers) sit on the windward side, but piss off > the leeward. Simple: just carry "well hung" pasengers! ;-)
keithw86@gmail.com - 08 Mar 2010 21:39 GMT > > On Mar 8, 11:06 am, "keith...@gmail.com" <keith...@gmail.com> wrote: > [quoted text clipped - 10 lines] > > Simple: just carry "well hung" pasengers! ;-) I prefer to make sure there is plenty of natural flotation around, but whatever floats your boat. ;-)
D Yuniskis - 09 Mar 2010 16:59 GMT Hi Keith,
>>> Which leads to a common sailor's problem: it is preferred that the >>> movable ballast (passengers) sit on the windward side, but piss off >>> the leeward. >> Simple: just carry "well hung" pasengers! ;-) > > I prefer to make sure there is plenty of natural flotation around, but Yes! And, for any flotation device to be effective, they need to be displayed -- er, um, *worn* -- prominently AT ALL TIMES! I always seem to have a problem getting compliance on this issue...
:-(
> whatever floats your boat. ;-) Archimedes' Lever - 10 Mar 2010 05:18 GMT >> [hmmm... that begs the question: what term to use >> to refer to describe the "side" (direction) that you [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] >The side into the wind would be "windward" side, so the other side >would be "leeward". ;-) This group is full of dolts and idiots.
JW - 10 Mar 2010 10:11 GMT <oraep5ttibmn10hdd994c7eakh2gtds239@4ax.com>:
> This group is full of dolts and idiots. I'll say.
Michael A. Terrell - 11 Mar 2010 01:57 GMT > <oraep5ttibmn10hdd994c7eakh2gtds239@4ax.com>: > > > This group is full of dolts and idiots. > > I'll say. 'dolts and idiots'
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 Signature Greed is the root of all eBay.
D Yuniskis - 11 Mar 2010 02:33 GMT Hi Michael,
>> <oraep5ttibmn10hdd994c7eakh2gtds239@4ax.com>: >> [quoted text clipped - 13 lines] > Bungalow Bill <BugalowBill@AbbeyRoad.UKCOM> > Capt. Cave Man <ItIsSoEasyACaveManCanDoIt@upyers.org> [snip]
You *do* realize many of these are the same idiot ^H^H^H individual? (at least my filter claims they are)
TheQuickBrownFox - 11 Mar 2010 03:29 GMT >Hi Michael, > [quoted text clipped - 20 lines] >You *do* realize many of these are the same idiot ^H^H^H individual? >(at least my filter claims they are) You really are not all that bright, you dumb fucktard.
When are you going to issue the challenge to post past your retarded filters, BOY?
Oh... that's right.. You know that I would succeed! And it would be 100% legal too! MY HOOKS. You wouldn't even catch it. I could post for a week, and then whop you upside your fat head with it again.
The fact is that NONE of my nyms make ANY attempt at hiding my identity. So all the "troll" retards, and all the "nymshift" claiming retards can kiss my 100% legitimate a.s.
krw@att.bizzzzzzzzzzzz - 11 Mar 2010 04:46 GMT >Hi Michael, > [quoted text clipped - 20 lines] >You *do* realize many of these are the same idiot ^H^H^H individual? >(at least my filter claims they are) Sure, they're undies from Nymbecile's mommy's hamper. That was Michael's point.
Michael A. Terrell - 11 Mar 2010 08:37 GMT > Hi Michael, > [quoted text clipped - 20 lines] > You *do* realize many of these are the same idiot ^H^H^H individual? > (at least my filter claims they are) *All* of them are 'Nymnuts' sockpupets.
 Signature Greed is the root of all eBay.
Archimedes' Lever - 11 Mar 2010 03:23 GMT >'dolts and idiots' The author of the post is one. His name is Terrell. His jaw hurts, and it makes him hate others. He spends time here venting his utter stupidity.
His last few posts are prime examples of such utter stupidity.
Just f.cking DIE already, asswipe!
mpm - 11 Mar 2010 14:24 GMT On Mar 10, 8:57 pm, "Michael A. Terrell" <mike.terr...@earthlink.net> wrote:
> > <oraep5ttibmn10hdd994c7eakh2gtds...@4ax.com>: > [quoted text clipped - 99 lines] > -- > Greed is the root of all eBay. I can't believe it... You left out SkyBuck. !! :)
Then again, maybe SkyBuck doesn't exactly, neatly fit the definition of a dolt or an idiot. He's might just be a psych-ward/mental patient who sometimes gets well enough to go out on weekends. You kind of feel sorry for him after a while...
Michael A. Terrell - 11 Mar 2010 15:48 GMT > On Mar 10, 8:57 pm, "Michael A. Terrell" <mike.terr...@earthlink.net> > wrote: [quoted text clipped - 111 lines] > enough to go out on weekends. > You kind of feel sorry for him after a while... All of those are sock puppets of the dimbulb troll, and they still don't add up to 5% of it having a personality.
 Signature Greed is the root of all eBay.
D Yuniskis - 11 Mar 2010 16:22 GMT >> On Mar 10, 8:57 pm, "Michael A. Terrell" <mike.terr...@earthlink.net> >>> [quoted text clipped - 18 lines] > All of those are sock puppets of the dimbulb troll, and they still > don't add up to 5% of it having a personality. My list has more names on it. :> I'll have to double check to see if my filter is being too "aggressive" :-/
Michael A. Terrell - 11 Mar 2010 16:23 GMT > >> On Mar 10, 8:57 pm, "Michael A. Terrell" <mike.terr...@earthlink.net> > >>> [quoted text clipped - 21 lines] > My list has more names on it. :> I'll have to double check > to see if my filter is being too "aggressive" :-/ I may have missed a few. Some are similar enough that another filter may have spit it into the bit bucket.
 Signature Greed is the root of all eBay.
Jim Thompson - 11 Mar 2010 16:57 GMT [snip]
>> > All of those are sock puppets of the dimbulb troll, and they still >> > don't add up to 5% of it having a personality. [quoted text clipped - 4 lines] > I may have missed a few. Some are similar enough that another filter >may have spit it into the bit bucket. NymNoNuts is even simpler to filter... you don't need all those names listed. Contact me privately for information. ...Jim Thompson
| James E.Thompson, CTO | mens | | Analog Innovations, Inc. | et | | Analog/Mixed-Signal ASIC's and Discrete Systems | manus | | Phoenix, Arizona 85048 Skype: Contacts Only | | | Voice:(480)460-2350 Fax: Available upon request | Brass Rat | | E-mail Icon at http://www.analog-innovations.com | 1962 | The only thing bipartisan in this country is hypocrisy
StickThatInYourPipeAndSmokeIt - 12 Mar 2010 00:53 GMT >NymNoNuts is even simpler to filter... you don't need all those names >listed. Contact me privately for information. > > ...Jim Thompson Put up the challenge, asswipe.
Your only hope would be to filter the entire cox local domain, IF I were so inclined that I wanted to prove it to you, I could easily get past all but the "filter it all" mentality that a retard like you reverts to..
So, challenge me, PUSSY BOY!
John Larkin - 12 Mar 2010 01:15 GMT >>NymNoNuts is even simpler to filter... you don't need all those names >>listed. Contact me privately for information. [quoted text clipped - 9 lines] > > So, challenge me, PUSSY BOY! Just filter bodies that have references to the common synonyms for poop.
John
D Yuniskis - 12 Mar 2010 16:59 GMT Hi John,
> Just filter bodies that have references to the common synonyms for > poop. Ha! I suspect that would work -- in "his" case.
I've been working on a filter that, so far, seems to work quite well. If I tell it *not* to look at IP address, name, organization, etc. (i.e., all of the "easy" things that can be manipulated) it still manages to find every targeted post. (well, so far, no false positives... I haven't done an exhaustive check on flase negatives, yet).
I've been recently trying to beat it (*knowing* how I designed it) by posting from different IP's, different names, different news clients, etc. and, so far, it's been spot on (no false positives *or* negatives, in my case).
Unfortunately, my current implementation (prototyped) is slow when I ask it to search an entire newsfeed. :< This is overkill (you would typically only "apply" it to a particular newgroup) but in this test case, I want to give it lots of "grist for the mill" -- lots of stuff to analyze -- without having to type all of that myself. :-/
In the short term, look at headers for easy ideas on this particular flamer. (note in some alter egos he tries to "act nice" but the filters never lie :> )
StickThatInYourPipeAndSmokeIt - 12 Mar 2010 00:32 GMT > All of those are sock puppets of the dimbulb troll, and they still >don't add up to 5% of it having a personality. And that 5% is an order of magnitude more than you have.
Your f.cking jokes are 50 years out of date. That shows how far disconnected from modern society you are, jackass.
Tim Williams - 08 Mar 2010 22:26 GMT > [hmmm... that begs the question: what term to use > to refer to describe the "side" (direction) that you > turn *into*? E.g., what I have called "right" in > this example] Angular directions are most specifically denoted by the right hand rule. Point your thumb in the direction of the axis, and your fingers will curl around the direction of positive rotation.
The problem then becomes specifying the 'thumb vector' consistently, but that's a bit easier now since "into the surface" is true no matter what direction you're looking at it (whereas the rotation is reversed if you flip the axis!).
Tim
 Signature Deep Friar: a very philosophical monk. Website: http://webpages.charter.net/dawill/tmoranwms
D Yuniskis - 09 Mar 2010 17:11 GMT Hi Tim,
>> [hmmm... that begs the question: what term to use >> to refer to describe the "side" (direction) that you [quoted text clipped - 9 lines] > direction you're looking at it (whereas the rotation is reversed if you flip > the axis!). But you're not going to offer *that* explanation in a casual conversation. E.g., imagine telling someone how NOT to attach a frayed cord to a replacement power plug in casual convesation at a party. AFAICT, you have to describe *wrapping* the wire "trong way" and then describe how the screw's motion pushes it out from under the screw in order for folks to remember what you've told them. You can't just say "to the left", etc.
(of course, if you're *at* a party, chances are they'll be too blitzed to remember, anyway! :> )
It's just one of those words that seems to be missing from the language.
Just like the word to describe the "dance" two people do when they approach each other (walking) and both (coincidentally) step one way (the same way) to avoid each other. Then, simultaneously realize they are, once again, on a collision course and *both* step back the other way. Again realize their common error, etc.
I.e., this happens often enough that one would think we would have a term for it (even a colloquial one!).
On the other hand, we have words like "Automatonophobia" (sheesh! how often does *that* come up in conversation??)
UpYerNose - 10 Mar 2010 05:11 GMT >Compare the 'springiness' of a bit of solder with a similar bit of copper >wire and why it is a bad idea is obvious (and the copper will work harden >and become even more 'springy'). No, Copper does not "become springy". What part of the meaning of the word HARDEN do you not understand, boy?
The f.cking idiots in this group are coming out of the woodwork.
Paul Keinanen - 08 Mar 2010 21:24 GMT >Is it ok to solder the tips of stranded wire before inserting into a >terminal block? [quoted text clipped - 4 lines] >Sure I could perhaps a crimp on pin terminals to stick in the terminal >block. I would never solder a multi stranded wire protected by a 6-16 A mains fuse.
If there is a shot circuit, the current could be something like 50-100 A, creating a lot of heat in a bad junction, heating the soldered wire ends and deforming the wire.
After replacing the fuse, there would be a bad connection creating a significant amount of heat.
If the mains fuse is blown, at least check each screw terminal for bad connections.
mpm - 08 Mar 2010 22:14 GMT > Is it ok to solder the tips of stranded wire before inserting into a > terminal block? [quoted text clipped - 11 lines] > D from BC > British Columbia Depends on what it is (for me). I personally think solder is the better choice if oxidation is a concern. Wires can get pretty dirty and grimey over time.
Some here have said solder might cause wire breakage in vibration settings. I've never experienced that, but I suppose it is possible, soldered or not. Ferrule or not.
Oh - I generally don't bother with ferrules unless its spec. Too much hassle for the benefit, in my humble opinion -- though I sure there are instances where their use is essential. Again, I just don't know of any -- and frankly, don't work with terminal strips _that_ often....
My $ 0.02 -mpm
UpYerNose - 10 Mar 2010 05:31 GMT >> Is it ok to solder the tips of stranded wire before inserting into a >> terminal block? [quoted text clipped - 16 lines] >concern. >Wires can get pretty dirty and grimey over time. You're an idiot.
>Some here have said solder might cause wire breakage in vibration >settings. Which, if you are unaware of the process, should stay the f.ck out of the discussion.
>I've never experienced that, but I suppose it is possible, soldered or >not. Ferrule or not. You are a true idiot, or so.
>Oh - I generally don't bother with ferrules unless its spec. You have no clue, much less grasp of what "spec" is.
>Too much hassle for the benefit, You have no clue what is or is not beneficial.
> in my humble opinion -- though I sure >there are instances where their use is essential. None where you would know a damned thing about it. How the f.ck did you ever make it anywhere in this industry?
>Again, I just don't know of any Exactly. You do not know of ANY ANYTHING.
> -- and frankly, don't work with >terminal strips _that_ often.... All the more reason why every f.cking thing you have stated has ZERO credibility.
>My $ 0.02 >-mpm And absolutely worthless at that.
D from BC - 09 Mar 2010 17:37 GMT > Is it ok to solder the tips of stranded wire before inserting into a > terminal block? [quoted text clipped - 8 lines] > I'm afraid I'll have to buy a ridiculously priced crimping tool that'll > get used a few times and then be forgotten. :( Thanks all the responses. :)
Archimedes' Lever - 10 Mar 2010 04:46 GMT >Is it ok to solder the tips of stranded wire before inserting into a >terminal block? No.
>I like soldering the tips so that there's no wire fraying or free >strands. IF you attempt to solder just the tips, it invariably gets up into the whole end, beyond 'just the tips'.
Once installed properly, one NEVER needs to worry about "fraying".
>But...Does the solder slowly compress after awhile and the wire gets >loose? Yes. It is referred to in the industry as "solder creep" It also occurs with plastics.
>Sure I could perhaps a crimp on pin terminals to stick in the terminal >block. The twisted wire bundle is fin as well. Unless you are some dope that thinks it is ok to hang weight on the wire causing a tensile force on the terminal position. That is also a dumb practice.
>Ex: >http://www.molex.com/pdm_docs/sd/192110001_sd.pdf >I'm afraid I'll have to buy a ridiculously priced crimping tool that'll >get used a few times and then be forgotten. :( Ever heard of rental? You do not need to add pins. Also, IF you did want to add pins, you could solder those on. Solder creep will not occur in such a case.
You put up some stupid topics. Especially since they have been covered several times here.
You should NEVER "tin" or solder fill ANY wire that is meant to be terminated into a cinch type terminal where the connection is dependent on the wire being compressed between two metallic elements.
The reason: Solder creep. The solution: Don't do it.
Paul Keinanen - 11 Mar 2010 02:14 GMT >Is it ok to solder the tips of stranded wire before inserting into a >terminal block? >I like soldering the tips so that there's no wire fraying or free >strands. >But...Does the solder slowly compress after awhile and the wire gets >loose? In the early 1970's I saw same badly molten mains plugs that had used soldered stranded wires and a short circuit had occurred on the load side.
After that, I have never used soldered stranded wires in situations, in which large currents could (e.g. in a failure situation) flow through the wire. Apparently some mains wiring standards are against using solder for this reason too.
For small current conductors, the main problem is the transition between the soldered and non-soldered part of the wire if there is some wire movement e.g. due to vibration.
GoldIntermetallicEmbrittlement - 11 Mar 2010 03:25 GMT >>Is it ok to solder the tips of stranded wire before inserting into a >>terminal block? [quoted text clipped - 15 lines] >between the soldered and non-soldered part of the wire if there is >some wire movement e.g. due to vibration. Solder creep occurs regardless of the current involved in the circuit, ya dopey ditz.
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