Forgot to mention:
It will draw current if one of the opamps is burnt out (with the
soldering iron).
Vitaliy
> Hello,
>
[quoted text clipped - 38 lines]
> Thanks,
> Vitaliy
Time to get your trusty VOM out. Verify that there is continuety between the
ground pins on the chips and the ground of the power supply. Now start
measuring voltages. You might need a 'scope to see where you lose the
signal.
Tam
> Hello,
>
[quoted text clipped - 38 lines]
> Thanks,
> Vitaliy
Obviously you have a continuity problem somewhere...
A multimeter will be able to tell you what's wrong.
Why do you need a 4 layer board if your 2 layer board was already
working?
Why are you dedicating the entire inner layers to +5V and -5V?
Dave.
>My application is: Transimpedance Amplifier (1st opamp)
>and Voltage gain (2nd opamp)
>I have 2 layer board that is working perfectly fine.
>I have created nearly identical 4 layer boards.
Why? If it was working perfectly fine, why change it?
>1. signal/ground layer (outer layer, top)
>2. +5V layer (inner layer)
>2. -5V layer (inner layer)
>4. signal/ground layer (outer layer, bottom)
That's an unusual configuration. Most analog designs benefit
more from a ground plane than from power planes without a
ground plane.
Also, +5V and -5V are slightly unusual voltages for powering
opamps. +/-15V, +/-12V, or even +/-10V are more commonly used.
Are you using +5V so you can power some logic chips?
>I cannot physically move signal layer into inner layers
>due to the fact the signal must go through a few resistors.
Is this a through-hole or surface mount design? If it is
through-hole, which layer a trace is on has nothing to do
with whether it goes to a resistor.
>The problem: the opamps are not drawing any current and there
>is no signal output. On the power supply unit, I can see that
[quoted text clipped - 3 lines]
>know if I missed some important information required to answer
>this.
Here is how to troubleshoot a new analog board layout that
supposedly has the same circuit (is built to the same schematic)
as an existing board:
First, test them both and verify that they both work the same.
If one of them is missing a signal starting at a particular
stage, that's the place to look at first.
You have found that they don't work the same -- they draw 0mA
and 20mA. Feed appropriate DC level into all the inputs, go
through every circuit with a voltmeter, and make a list of
everything else that is different.
There are only three possible reasons why the two would work
differently when fed DC as described above:
[1] The circuits are not the same. Somewhere a trace is
added, missing, or goes to the wrong place.
[2] A component is bad or has the wrong value.
[3] (Rare) a circuit that didn't oscillate on the old board
oscillates on the new board, or a circuit that did oscillate
on the old board does not oscillate on the new board.
To troubleshoot [1] (The circuits are not the same): Get an
assistant, have one of you use a DMM in continuity mode to
see what each pin connects to, while the other highlights
the connections on the schematic. It is important to do
this single-blind. I do it like this:
Me: (looking at schematic) "Does U1 pin 3 go to U3 pin 6?"
Him: (looking at board with meter) "Yes."
I then use a yellow highlighter to color the connection on
the schematic.
Me: "Good. Does it go anywhere else?"
Him: (looking at where the traces go on the board and checking
the other pins of U1, U2, and any components close to them)
"No."
Note that some meters won't beep if you aren't on the trace
long enough. You want one that beeps when you slide the
probe from pin-to-pin on a connector or IC and get a
connection for a very short amount of time.
Me: "Good." ...and so on. To reduce the chances of errors,
every few minutes I ask whether a pin that *doesn't* connect
to to another connects, and say "good" when he says "No."
If he gives an unexpected answer, we look at the board, at the
artwork, and at the schematic, and occasionally refer to the
old board and its artwork.
To troubleshoot [2] (component is bad or has the wrong value),
use an LCR meter and DMM in diode mode to measure every discrete
component, a logic probe and pulser to measure every logic gate,
and a signal generator and oscilloscope to test every opamp and
transistor. If you do this a lot, get a Huntron Tracker (see
http://www.huntron.com/) and use that first.
To troubleshoot [3] (oscillations), start by making sure that
troubleshooting method [2] didn't find anything, then start
looking at signals with an oscilloscope. Check amplifier and
oscillator circuits first.
Or, if you are doing this at work, hire a good electronics
engineering technician from a temp agency. *Most* electronics
engineers can do the same job, but there is an occasional one
that graduated with no hands-on experience making things work.

Signature
Guy Macon
<http://www.guymacon.com/>
> Hello,
>
[quoted text clipped - 38 lines]
> Thanks,
> Vitaliy
Unless there is a mistake in the net then I cant see what is wrong.
Have you run a "continuity check" and an "integrity check" on your
layout ?
I am assuming your software has these? if not dump it !
www.ckp-railways.talktalk.net/pcbcad21.htm
Brad Velander - 11 Sep 2007 07:06 GMT
Hopefully the original poster lets those know if any suggestions worked or
suspicions were correct.
Myself I am betting that his multi-layer board doesn't have connections to
his internal layers. Note that one original comment below, where it states
it has clearances for all vias. Well some of his vias should not have
clearances to those internal layers if it is supposed to work. I figured
that the simplest foul-up for someone starting a first multilayer design is
not getting the connections to the internal layers connecting correctly.

Signature
Sincerely,
Brad Velander.
>> Hello,
Snip
>> The difference between two 4 layer boards is that:
>> -board 1 has the entire layers dedicated to +5V and -5V (which are not
>> close to the edges of the board, and have clearances for all vias)
Snip