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Electronics Forum / Basics / May 2007Tinning a solid copper bar.
Hi guys: I'd like to tin one side of a 5/16" square copper bar so that it can be soldered to a PCB. A soldering iron isn't doing the trick, even with lots of flux. Any ideas? Don > Hi guys: > [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] > > Don Propane torch  Signature#1 Offishul Ruiner of Usenet, March 2007 #1 Usenet a.shole, March 2007 #1 Bartlo Pset, March 13-24 2007 #10 Most hated Usenetizen of all time #8 AUK Hate Machine Cog Pierre Salinger Memorial Hook, Line & Sinker, June 2004 COOSN-266-06-25794 > Hi guys: > [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] > > Don Solder pot. SignatureService to my country? Been there, Done that, and I've got my DD214 to prove it. Member of DAV #85. Michael A. Terrell Central Florida > I'd like to tin one side of a 5/16" square copper bar so that it can > be soldered to a PCB. A soldering iron isn't doing the trick, even > with lots of flux. Any ideas? Did you clean it thoroughly? You can use acid flux for this as long as you thoroughly wash it off afterwards. Then you just need enough heat - even a burner on the stove will do. Signature. -- . . . . . . . . -- > Hi guys: > [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] > > Don First clean it with Scotch Brite until it's, well, bright. Then coat it with plenty of flux paste to prevent oxidation when it heats up. Next, heat it up. Your iron probably doesn't have enough power. A common technique to to heat the bar on a hot plate to something below soldering temperature, and then use the iron to "put it over the top". And you know about the solder. >Hi guys: > [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] > >Don Believe me, soldering a solid copper bar of this size directly to a PCB is a no-no!! Even after you get the bar tinned (as suggested with a propane torch) then you have to somehow get an even greater amount of heat into it in order to get it soldered to the pcb. Since you can't use a propane torch for this operation without destroying the pcb, and a soldering iron won't do the job adequately, then what do you do? The only solution is to drill and tap the copper bar (after tinning all over to stop oxidation) and then use metal thread screws and washers (combination of flat and shakeproof) to attach it to the pcb. That is how one Swiss manufacturer of sine wave inverters does it and I can attest to the effectiveness of this method. This technique also makes for ease of repairs if you ever have to remove the copper bar from the pcb. > >Hi guys: > [quoted text clipped - 19 lines] > makes for ease of repairs if you ever have to remove the copper bar > from the pcb. Absolutely. Also, if you get the bar hot enough to accept the solder (as opposed to "tacking" it on -- not a good high current connection), it will delaminate the PCB traces. Use pan heads and internal tooth lockwashers where helpful. By the way, tinning it first is a good idea, too. Clamp it down using a couple of pieces of mica or other thermal insulator to keep the vise from becoming just another heat sink. If a soldering gun doesn't provide enough heat, try a propane torch. Use external flux (and *don't* use plumbers' flux or acid flux!) Good luck Chris > Absolutely. Also, if you get the bar hot enough to accept the solder > (as opposed to "tacking" it on -- not a good high current connection), > it will delaminate the PCB traces. Use pan heads and internal tooth > lockwashers where helpful. And when the hot copper cools and contracts, it warps the board. > By the way, tinning it first is a good idea, too. Clamp it down using > a couple of pieces of mica or other thermal insulator If mica is such a good thermal insulator, why do they use it for electrical insulation on heat sinks? Just lay it in a piece of firebrick. Cheers! Rich > Hi guys: > > I'd like to tin one side of a 5/16" square copper bar so that it can > be soldered to a PCB. A soldering iron isn't doing the trick, even > with lots of flux. Any ideas? get the bar hot enough to melt solder (stick it on the stove or blast it with a blow-torch) then flux it and apply solder. Bye. Jasen |
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