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Soldering tiny (e.g. PLCC, LFCSP, CLCC) ICs

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ted - 27 Apr 2007 21:22 GMT
What do hobbyists do if the IC they want is only available in a tiny
5mm-on-a-side format, like CLCC?  (I'm thinking, specifically, of an
accelerometer made by Analog Devices.)  Are there snap-in adapters out
there that would give me a more PDIP-like pin-out?  I have seen
suggestions, on sci.electronics.design, for how to solder the tiny
buggers, but the implied soldering skill level seems way beyond me
(and besides, at $20 per accelerometer IC, I'm not eager to do too
much learning-by-doing here!)
ian field - 27 Apr 2007 21:28 GMT
> What do hobbyists do if the IC they want is only available in a tiny
> 5mm-on-a-side format, like CLCC?  (I'm thinking, specifically, of an
[quoted text clipped - 4 lines]
> (and besides, at $20 per accelerometer IC, I'm not eager to do too
> much learning-by-doing here!)

How sensitive is it to heat?
ted - 27 Apr 2007 21:38 GMT
> > What do hobbyists do if the IC they want is only available in a tiny
> > 5mm-on-a-side format, like CLCC?  (I'm thinking, specifically, of an
[quoted text clipped - 6 lines]
>
> How sensitive is it to heat?

The data sheet says storage temperature is -65C to +150C.  But they
also give detailed soldering-related information, which I've grabbed
and posted at the following location if you care to look at it:
http://trhj.homeunix.net/~strnbrg/soldering.jpg.
ian field - 27 Apr 2007 22:20 GMT
>> > What do hobbyists do if the IC they want is only available in a tiny
>> > 5mm-on-a-side format, like CLCC?  (I'm thinking, specifically, of an
[quoted text clipped - 11 lines]
> and posted at the following location if you care to look at it:
> http://trhj.homeunix.net/~strnbrg/soldering.jpg.

The important point is whether its any more sensitive to heat than a non
specialised common IC types.

If heat is not particularly an issue there is a technique that can be
applied to SMD chips with close pin spacings.

Tac the corner pins to the pads as accurately as you can then flow solder
along the row of pins with the tip of the iron, next hold the board upside
down overhead and re-melt the solder - do this over the waste paper basket
as the solder drops are evil to get out of carpet!

This was always easy with lead/tin solder but is likely to be much more
difficult with lead-free, plenty of flux is the only solution. Once you have
removed the bulk of the solder let the chip cool (have a cuppa) then you can
deal with the solder bridges between pins, again with plenty of flux tease
the bridges away from the chip body with the board upside down & overhead -
tilt it slightly so gravity helps the solder to go the way you want.

If you want fine pitch SMD chips to practice on - a scrap VCR or cable box
might be a good place to look.
Jon Slaughter - 27 Apr 2007 23:14 GMT
>>> > What do hobbyists do if the IC they want is only available in a tiny
>>> > 5mm-on-a-side format, like CLCC?  (I'm thinking, specifically, of an
[quoted text clipped - 33 lines]
> If you want fine pitch SMD chips to practice on - a scrap VCR or cable box
> might be a good place to look.

How bout pre-solder the ic and pads?  Should make it easier? If you could
heat up some solder you could dip the ic into the solder and do it pretty
quickly(not all the way of course). Although I'm not sure if its worth that
unless you plan on doing many of them.

The way I saw to do this was use wick to soak up the solder.
ian field - 28 Apr 2007 15:40 GMT
>>>> > What do hobbyists do if the IC they want is only available in a tiny
>>>> > 5mm-on-a-side format, like CLCC?  (I'm thinking, specifically, of an
[quoted text clipped - 41 lines]
>
> The way I saw to do this was use wick to soak up the solder.

Pre-soldering is a very bad idea - its impossible to get even thickness on
each pad & each pin, this also makes it difficult to accurately line up the
pins and the chip mounting looks uneven & scruffy.

The process of flowing the pins uses too much solder to suck up with wick
(unless you don't mind using a whole reel on one chip) and there's a risk of
the solder cooling either side of the point the iron is applied - you have
to be very careful not to pull up or bend the pins as you separate the wick
away.
Jon Slaughter - 28 Apr 2007 22:19 GMT
>>>>> > What do hobbyists do if the IC they want is only available in a tiny
>>>>> > 5mm-on-a-side format, like CLCC?  (I'm thinking, specifically, of an
[quoted text clipped - 51 lines]
> have to be very careful not to pull up or bend the pins as you separate
> the wick away.

The video's I saw of the guy doing this was pretty good. He didn't seem to
have any of these issues(or atleast they were easily fixed).

I thought I had the link to it but I guess not. I think some of them are on
youtube too.
Jon Slaughter - 27 Apr 2007 22:17 GMT
> What do hobbyists do if the IC they want is only available in a tiny
> 5mm-on-a-side format, like CLCC?  (I'm thinking, specifically, of an
[quoted text clipped - 4 lines]
> (and besides, at $20 per accelerometer IC, I'm not eager to do too
> much learning-by-doing here!)

I've seen soic done with a heat gun and a soldering iron using solder wick.
I've also seen those who have build there own ovens.

Maybe your best bet is to get a few cheap components that have similar
packages and practice on them? You might discover an easy way to do it.
Eric R Snow - 27 Apr 2007 22:42 GMT
>What do hobbyists do if the IC they want is only available in a tiny
>5mm-on-a-side format, like CLCC?  (I'm thinking, specifically, of an
[quoted text clipped - 4 lines]
>(and besides, at $20 per accelerometer IC, I'm not eager to do too
>much learning-by-doing here!)
Thry this link: http://www.schmartboard.com/
Looks like maybe just what you need.
ERS
DJ Delorie - 28 Apr 2007 02:09 GMT
I haven't done leadless chips yet (although I've done a leadless SMT
socket once), but I've been able to solder pretty much everything
else, down to 0.4mm pitch and 01005 caps.  For the really fine stuff,
what I usually do is put down solder paste (with a brass home-etched
stencil, perhaps), and either heat it from beneath the PCB with a
hotplate (or electric frying pan), or for 01005's and other two-pins,
use a soldering iron to melt the paste without needing to touch the
actual part - just touch the copper trace next to the paste and let
the heat reflow the paste.

I find that not touching the part itself with the iron keeps it from
moving around.

I did SOJ with the hotplate, with zero fauls on eight SRAM chips, and
that was without a stencil.

Related pages:

http://www.delorie.com/pcb/brass/ - home-etched brass paste stencils
http://www.delorie.com/pcb/hotplate/ - the hotplate I use
http://www.delorie.com/pcb/smd-challenge/ - 01005 and 0.4mm parts
http://www.delorie.com/house/furnace/pcb2/ - tssop and the one SMT socket
http://www.delorie.com/pcb/m3a/ - the SOJ sram chips

http://www.stencilsunlimited.com/solder_products.php - the paste I use
 
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